Monday, August 3, 2009

Right Now - 3/8/09 4:50 PM


Feeling great.  I'm sitting at the Soda Mary (again, neither a soda nor owned by Mary), with Jake and Honey.  A few others sitting around.  Chillin.  

I've done very little in the last couple of days.  After going to the contest on Saturday, I decided to just relax for a while.  I surfed yesterday and determined I did not know how to surf (or at least had forgotten).  I went out again today and determined I should have been in the contest - I surely would have been the favorite to win.  I actually got barreled a bit today, for the first time ever.  I didn't make it out, but got to experience the inside of a wave for a split second.  And it was freaking awesome.  The sound is unlike anything I had heard.  It's kinda like the sound you hear with your ear up against a conch shell, but like it's constantly being pulled away, and surrounds you and overwhelms you as it sucks you in.  It looks like a beautiful three dimensional waterfall, and the water on the inside is glassy like black ice.  It's magical.  

I've spent a lot more time alone over the past week or so, and I'm definitely feeling better.  I've still been socializing a bit, got a good mix going on right now.  I spoke with Trevor yesterday, and I am likely going to take a trip to Colombia to check it out.  I also spoke with a friend here on Saturday night, and have a great option for work in this country.  But, for right now, I'm really enjoying just being.  Just taking time.  Reading a bit of Tao of Pooh, listening to a bit of Enigma, catching a few waves.  But mostly just chillin.  And it's nice. 

1 comment:

  1. So what is it about Colombia that is alluring to former managers (two) of TLTL?

    The inside of the wave sounds incredible! Thanks for sharing.

    <3 U!

    ReplyDelete